Most of the cultural centers of
Nepal are concentrated around the Kathmandu Valley and from the
point of view of art and architectural concentration, Kathmandu
Valley could be considered as an open-sky museum. Among those cultural
sites, the important one is the Hanuman Dhoka Royal Palace. Centrally
located royal palace in the capital city of Nepal is thus termed
as the Hanuman Dhoka Royal Palace because a Hanuman image in the
entrance of the palace has been established by the King Pratap Malla
in 1672 A.D. It also began to be called as Basantapur Durbar after
the erection of nine storied temple residence by King Prithvi Narayan
Shah in 1770/71. Thus the Palace complex is known as the Hanuman
Dhoka Royal Palace in the Malla period and the Basantapur Palace
in the shah period respectively. What was the name of this palace
before that period is not known although there existed some form
of royal palace in the very site. There is still a paucity of historical
documents about who established the palace. All the architectural
remains and art objects which we see now within the palace complex
are coming down from Malla, Shah and Rana periods of Nepal.
There are some references of royal palace in the
same area during Lichhavi period also. A Lichhavi inscription of
Sambat 535 (612/13 A.D.) from Joshi Deval which mentions about a
royal palace with its four side boundaries (of inscription area)
known as Dakshinrajkula. It gives the site to be located in the
north east direction which definitely indicates area of the Hanuman
Dhoka Royal Palace of today. There is an additional evidence of
the existence of a royal palace there. An inscription executed during
the period of Amsuvarma (605 A.D.-621 A.D.) which mentions about
the renovation of a Lichhavi royal palace. This is attached to the
plinth of Degutalezu temple. There are also other cultural evidence
which dates back to the antiquity of a royal palace. There is a
tradition of bringing the image of Changu Narayana to the royal
palace twice a year, in the month of Sravan (July –August)
and Poush (December-January). It is proved that Changu Narayan is
older than King Manadeva (464-505 A.D.). If the origin of Changu
Narayana and custom of bringing him into the Hanuman Dhoka royal
palace is contemporaneous, then there is no controversy about the
hoary antiquity of Hanuman Dhoka royal palace. In addition to all
those evidences, the icons found from the site also gives the proof
that the site or royal palace is really old one.
Hanuman Dhoka royal palace is also designed as
other royal palaces of Kathmandu Valley, with big courtyards, gardens
and open spaces for the temples in which Gods and Goddesses reside.
The temple styles comprised pagodas, sikharas and dome shaped architectures.
The royal palace during medieval period was not erected merely for
king and queens but also used as the centre of administration, and
cultural activities and festivals. Hanuman Dhoka royal palace also
comprised all these activities and thus the architectural buildings
were also erected in order to meet those necessities.
All the monuments- historical buildings religious
temples and shrines which are concentrated to -day in and around
Hanuman Dhoka were not built in a day. They are the result of the
donation by numerous patrons and builders in hundreds of years.
They were erected from the time of King Ratna Malla (1484-1520 A.D.)
to Prithvi Vir Bikrma Shah (1875-1911 A.D.) Ratna Malla, the second
son of King Yakshya Mall, declared kantipur as an independent principality
in 1484 and separated it from the clutches of Bhaktapur. Bhaktapur
was then the capital of entire valley and patan was still to come
into an independent state. There are some monuments still standing
near Hanuman Dhoka royal palace which is the creation of Ratna Malla.
According to some chronicles, Ratna Malla had erected
a small temple of Talezu near Tana Bahal. The Goddess Taleju is
considered to be the tutelary deity of Malla dynasty. He had also
constructed Hiti Chowk. Surya Malla and Amar Malla, the successors
of Ratna Malla did not leave any meritorious works. Then comes the
reign of Mahendra Malla who had contributed a lot to enhance the
beauty of the Hanuman Dhoka. He enlarged the small temple of Talezu
into a marvelous size and made the main courtyard- the Mul Chowk.
All the rituals and ceremonies pertaining to the kings take place
in this courtyard even to-day. Still there exists one of the oldest
part of the Hanuman Dhoka. He also consecrated the icon of Mahendresvara
and made the temple for him in 1561 A.D. In addition to that he
had made a temple near the main entrance of royal palace and enshrined
the image of Chatrumukhi Bishnu in it.
Another important royal personage was born in Malla
Dynasty. He was King Pratap Malla (1641-1674 A.D.). His reign was
marked by development such as literature, religion, culture, art
and architecture. He was the fore runner in building activities
among all the Malla kings in Kantipur. He was not only embellished
the royal palace but also made a lot of temples and shrines in every
nook and corner of kantipur city. In fact, it was the period, when
most of the building activities in Kathmandu valley was in the height
of progress. There was some sort of competition among three petty
kingdoms in building and furnishing their royal palaces with temples
and monuments. There was full scale development in the architecture
of royal buildings. Also it was during his reign that the area of
royal palace was extended. There was new addition of Sundari Chowk,
Nasal Chowk and Bhandarkhal Royal Garden. Immediately after ascending
the throne, he had erected the lion capital on a stone pillar in
front of the Degu temple. He did the consecration of the image of
Hanuman and Vishvaroopa in the royal entrance, erected the temple
of Panchamukhi Hanuman in Nasal Chowk along with Narasingh image
and golden Chaturmukha Bishnu. Krishna temple Kavindrapur and famous
Kalabhairava image are other additions to the royal palace complex
made by Pratap Malla. Besides royal palace, in Pasupati, Guhesvari
and Swayambhu Nath area also he left his marks.
After Pratap Malla, Parthivendra Malla added another
temple of Trailokyamohan in 1660 A.D. Similarly, the queen mother
Riddhi Laxmi erected the high temple in front of royal palace dedicated
to Shiva. The temple is called Maju Deval (the mother temple). Another
queen mother Bhuvan Laxmi also added many temples to embellish the
site between 1802-1810 A.D.
Jayaprakash Malla, last king of kantipur had added
in 1756 A.D. a remarkable monument of Kumarighar, also called Kumari
Bahal in which the living Goddess the kumari (the virgin) resides
even to-day. The kumarighar is made in the architectural form of
a Buddhist vihar and is decorated with the intricate wood carvings
and terracotta art as well. The inner wall of the monument is further
decorated with the freeze art of the day. The monument is called
now with different names- Kumarighar,Kumari Vahal, Kumari Chowk,
and Kumari Mandir. The site is equally important from cultural religious
and architectural point of view.
In addition to all these monuments, another most
important monument is the Kastha Mandapa which is located to south
west of Hanuman Dhoka and was already in existence from 1142 A.D
(NS 262). Although made in a temple architecture, its function is
of a sattal type which serves as the shelter house for the Jogis
the hermits. This monument carries another importance, since last
few decades all the state dignitaries are honoured in this monument
by handling over the key of the Kathmandu city by the city Mayor.
The name of the Kathmandu city is derived from this monument which
has enhanced the glory of this city.
After the conquest of Kantipur by Prithvi Narayan
Shah in 1768 A.D. Kathmandu was declared the capital city of entire
country. Prithvi Narayan Shah erected a tallest residential palace
in the form of temple architecture and called it a Nautale Durbar
(the nine storied palace) in 1770 A.D. It is the only residential
pagoda style architecture in Nepal.
Although short reigned, the son of Prithvi Narayan
Shah, King Pratap Singh Shah enlarged the temple of Basantapur and
Vilas Mandir along with the courtyard occupied by them. Rana Bahadur
Shah added the shrine of Sweta Bhairav and big bell and likewise
Girvan Yuddha Bikram Shah embellished the main entrance with gold
gilding in 1810 A.D. Rajendra Bikram Shah renovated the Mul Chowk
and Mohan Chowk in 1822 A.D. and paved the floor with flag stones
two years earlier. Again next year Nasal Chowk was paved, along
with the construction of Sish Mahal. Although enlarged, the architectural
norms were not much altered during the renovations of those times.
But after the return of Prime Minister Jang Bahadur’s
visit from Great Britain in 1857 A.D. there was a new style of neo-classic
buildings from Europe added to the architecture of Kathmandu Valley.
From then onwards about fifty such neo-classical palaces were built
in and around Kathmandu Valley for the Kings, Prime ministers and
their relatives. Likewise, Chandra Shumser built the Gaddhi Vaithak
in this style in 1907 A.D. removing some of the older buildings
from there. This happened during the reign of King Prithvi Bir Bikram
Shah thus Ranas brought the change in palatial architecture and
introduced the European style into Nepalese Architecture. Many parts
added later on by the Ranas in Hanuman Dhoka royal complex are quite
conspicuous.
During the survey conducted in 1830 the Hanuman
Dhoka palace complex was shown quite bigger and wider than to-day.
There were about thirty five courtyards and the people remember
even to-day that the Hanuman Dhoka royal palace included the compound
of present Super Market, Bhugol Park Nepal Bank building and the
present New Road gate, as its limit. But the area of the present
palace has shrinked and brought to its present shape due to many
reasons, such as the major one being the devastation of the Great
Earthquake of 1934, opening New Road and Indra Chowk still it is
the biggest royal palace complex of the medieval period among all
medieval royal palaces in Nepal. There are only ten courtyards left
to-day with its boundary.
The Hanuman Dhoka royal palace is included in the
protected Monument zone along with other private buildings. It is
one of the sites which is included in the World Heritage list the
map showing boundary line of the site included in the world heritage
list is attached herewith.
It will not be an exaggeration to call the complex
as the open museum of the Nepalese culture, art and architecture.
One feels as if he/she is within a pilgrimage centre when one enters
and ceremonies organized often in the palace complex adds to its
cultural value even more. Actually these cultural activities architectural
monuments and art piece in the form of icons images and statues
have contributed its glory in the past, present and will enhance
even in the future. No tourists visiting Nepal would miss this place.
In one way all those palace complexes are exhibiting
its own glory and in other way- they are also the pride of our cultural
heritage and the sign of national integrity as well. Therefore,
it is our collective duty and responsibility now to preserve them
and maintain the environment of those historical and cultural heritages.
|